Despite moving locations, this traditional Tianjin favorite cannot seem to shake its crowded, almost claustrophobic, ambience. The reason for this is simple. The sweet pork ribs on offer are just so good that the demand ensures the tables are almost always full for the duration of the evening. On busy nights, reservations are required and, at times, diners have been asked to share tables in order to squeeze everyone in. The swathes of adoring Tianjinren and laowai - I have a Canadian friend who scarcely eats anywhere else – who frequent Sha Guo Li act as a fitting endorsement. The menu is not particularly varied. One or two vegetable side dishes support three or four varieties of pork. However, there is little need for diversification when the staples are so good. The pork ribs are served in formless lumps, yet they are so tender that they can be pulled apart with the slightest flick of the chopstick.
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