The Gingko offers dining at its most decadent, so don't say you weren't warned when the bill arrives: this place is expensive, and does everything on a grand and classy scale. To start with, it offers not one, but three menus, with delectable Japanese, Western and Chinese cuisine emerging from three separate kitchens at the lift of a diner's eyebrow. The wine list is - as you would expect - extensive and not for the fainthearted. Everything else, from the high-end décor to the carefully-framed river views, whispers opulence.