Dao Jia Chang will whisk you back to Beijing in the 1930s. The servers are decked out in traditional garb and the inexpensive dishes are all authentic. Served with theatrical dish clanging and shouting that some might find ''over the top.'' The Zha Jiang Mian (noodles with fried soybean sauce and veggies) are a standout dish. Accepts international credit cards.