For many visitors, the word Mongolia evokes images of endless rolling grassland and nomadic herdsmen: and often this is the focus of trips to Hohhot. Some visitors, confident in their Chinese language skills and experienced in similar expeditions, may wish to explore the wilder parts of the mountains on their own and meet herdsmen on their own territory. However, in recent years, the local government has invested a great deal in setting up areas about 100 kilometers out from Hohhot where visitors can have a grassland experience safely and easily. Some of the authenticity is of course lost when modern facilities are introduced which can be disappointing, as can the crowds in more popular areas. Over the course of a stay though, there should be ample time to trek into remote areas with Mongolian guides and discover a little of their unique way of life.
A day trip to the Grasslands may provide visitors with some pretty pictures, but to truly understand the experience one should be prepared to stay for at least a day or two in a traditional Mongolian tent, called a yurt. The Yurts are wooden-framed tents covered in felt made from compressed sheep wool and thickly lined with padded blankets, sheep-skin rugs, handmade quilts and embroidered pillows, designed to be packed up quickly and carried by camel with the nomadic tribesmen. Modern yurts (particularly those in the approved tourist areas) are more permanent structures, built on concrete in small camps occasionally equipped with hot water and electric lights.
Visiting one of the many Aobaos on the Mongolian Steppes during festival time is an unforgettable experience. The Aobaos are heaps of stone whose original use seems to have been as markers to guide the way for nomads across the massive grasslands. As time went on, the markers understandably became meeting places (''meet you at the third Aobao...'') especially for young lovers, for whom the steppes must seem particularly large when their paths cross so rarely. The Aobaos began to be used as shrines to heroes of various wars that took place in ancient Mongolia: artifacts such as the hero's sword would be placed in amongst the stones and people would bring sacrifices to them. The tradition of sacrificing at the Aobaos has continued and it is now their primary function. Corn, meat, fruit and alcohol are dedicated to the gods of the sky, the gods of the earth and tribal ancestors to celebrate the birth of a new child, weddings and good harvests. During summer when the crops are lush and the animals grow fat, the Aobaos see many visitors. Rituals lasting several days take place at the Aobaos, which are swathed in white cloth as invited Lamas and Buddhist teachers speak and intricate dances are performed.
Visitors to the grasslands should not miss out traditional entertainments of the Mongolian steppe. The most popular are the ''Men's Three Skills'' of wrestling, horse racing and archery, which are seen as the most necessary skills for a man to have. Every year during the most important festival in the Mongolian calendar - Nadam - the tribesmen will compete in these pursuits, but all year round they will demonstrate their skills and encourage visitors to join them.
Meal times provide a great deal of entertainment too. Whole sheep are roasted by the herdsmen, mutton is boiled in a stew-like dish called shouba rou which is eaten with the hands and several dishes made from mare's milk are shared including milky tea and milky bean curd. The Baiju dinner normally ends with dancing and singing of toasting songs accompanied by Mongolian instruments, such as the Matouqin, a fiddle whose scroll is carved into the shape of a horse's head
Some of the purpose-built yurt camps have opened discos and other western entertainments: take your choice between these or the more authentic experiences on offer further out.
Xilamuren Grassland (Xi La Mu Ren Cao Yuan)
Admission: RMB 30
Opening hrs: all day
Add: 90 km north of Hohhot
Tel: 0472-8313108
Getting there: hire a car or take a taxi. The road condition is ok.
Gegentala Grassland (Ge Gen Ta La Cao Yuan)
Admission: RMB 60
Opening hrs: all day
Add: Gegentala Grassland Tourism Center, Sixiwang Qi, Inner Mongolia
Tel: 0474-5448000, 5448088
Getting there: take a long distance buses heading to Erlianhaote from either Hohhot Long Distance Bus Station or Hohhot Long Distance South Bus Station. The one way trip takes about 2 hrs.
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